How to Give a Cat a Pill: 7 Vet-Approved Methods (Including One for Impossible Cats)

If you’ve ever tried to give your cat a pill, you know it’s basically like trying to convince a furry ninja to swallow poison.

Your cat knows. They always know. And they will fight you with every ounce of their being.

But here’s the thing: sometimes our cats need medication. Whether it’s antibiotics for an infection, pain relief after surgery, or a daily medication for a chronic condition, getting that pill into your cat’s mouth is part of loving them.

It’s not fun. It’s stressful. Your cat will probably hate you for about five minutes. But it matters.

The good news? There are actually multiple ways to do this, and not all of them involve a wrestling match.

Let me walk you through seven vet-approved methods, starting with the easiest and working up to the strategies for those cats who seem to have a PhD in pill avoidance.

Why Cats Resist Pills (And It’s Not Personal)

Before I dive into the methods, it helps to understand why your cat is being so difficult about taking their medication. It’s not that they’re trying to make your life miserable (okay, maybe a little). There are actual reasons cats hate pills.

First, cats have incredibly sensitive taste buds and a strong sense of smell. They can detect medication from a mile away. That pill you’re trying to hide in their food? They know it’s there. They can taste it, smell it, and they’re not interested. Unlike dogs who might swallow something without thinking, cats are deliberate eaters who inspect their food carefully.

Second, pills feel weird in their mouth. Cats have a very specific way of eating and swallowing, and a hard object going down their throat disrupts that natural process. It’s uncomfortable and unfamiliar, and cats hate unfamiliar things.

Third, if your cat has had medication before, they remember. Cats have excellent memories, especially when it comes to unpleasant experiences. If they’ve been pilled before, they’re going to be on high alert. They’ll watch you more carefully, resist your attempts, and generally make the whole process harder.

Finally, there’s the stress factor. When you’re frustrated and anxious about giving your cat a pill, they feel that energy. Cats are incredibly perceptive and pick up on your tension. The whole experience becomes stressful for both of you, which makes them even more resistant.

Understanding this doesn’t make it easier, but it does help explain why your sweet, cuddly cat turns into a tiny furry demon when it’s pill time.

Method 1: The Pill Pocket Trick (The Easiest Route)

This is where most people start, and honestly, it works for a lot of cats.

Pill pockets are these little soft treats with a pocket you can hide a pill inside. They’re designed specifically for this purpose. You just pop the pill in, seal it up, and offer it to your cat like it’s the best thing they’ve ever tasted.

The catch? Some cats see right through it. They’ll eat the treat, spit out the pill, and look at you like you’re an amateur. But if your cat isn’t a pill-detecting genius, this is your easiest win.

When using pill pockets don’t just hand it over. Make it casual. Toss it like you’re not even paying attention. Sometimes cats are more interested in “stealing” food than eating something you’re obviously trying to get them to consume. We actually used this method to get our cats Beau and Walker to exercise, essentially throwing kibble across long hallways to make him run. Though used a Slimcat ball for the majority of their meals, we’d try and make sure at least one of their feeding times was spent tossing kibble as they were extremely food motivated cats.

Greenies Feline Pill Pockets are the most popular and have flavor options like chicken and salmon that might appeal to pickier cats. 

My only issue with pill pockets is that they are often too big for cats, which was particularly an issue for Beau who refused to even eat kibble that was a bit larger than normal. If your cat is similar, I’d recommend tearing the pill pocket into smaller pieces and trying to wrap it around the pill. Unfortunately, we’ve had mixed results with this and Beau in particular ended up associating the smell of pill pockets with medication; ultimately refusing to eat them altogether. 

While true for Beau, we’ve had positive experiences with pill pockets with other cats, so I’d still say it’s worth a try!

Method 2: Hide It in Wet Food (The Sneaky Approach)

This one’s simple: crush the pill (if your vet says it’s okay to crush it), mix it into a small amount of really smelly wet food, and serve it up.

Important: Always check with your vet before crushing a pill. Some medications have special coatings that need to stay intact, and crushing them can make them less effective or cause side effects.

The key here is using food your cat can’t resist and would strongly advise that you don’t use the food your cat eats regularly.

I’m talking about the brands we consider to be “cat crack” like Fancy Feast, Whiskas, Tiki, or whatever makes your cat’s eyes light up. The goal is to find foods with a strong smell that masks the pill. 

Although I’m a huge advocate for avoiding grocery store cat food, especially in North America where pet food regulations are a lot more relaxed; using bottom of the shelf cat foods for the sake of giving them pills shouldn’t have adverse affects on your cat. I’d avoid giving them a full-tin of the stuff, especially if your cat is at risk of diabetes or liver failure; so I would recommend grabbing a silicone wet food lid to use the same can over the next couple days.

Note: If you’re someone who already feeds grocery store food to your cat, I would advise you either use a different brand or a different flavour. 

Wet food can survive in the fridge for up to 5 days as long as it is in an air tight container, so using silicone lids is the best option. Though you may want to transfer the wet food into a sealed plastic container this can often be less hygienic due to lingering bacteria and I would advise using a glass container instead.

The silicone wet food lid tends to be the most inexpensive option, if you do not have glass containers, and is considered to be safer than a plastic container simply because the lid will not be touching the food. Still, proper cleaning needs to be done to the lid after each usage. Ensure that the lid is properly dried before replacing it on the top of the can.

Over the years, Beau had to take a variety of medications, making him my Guinea pig for pill testing. While there were some pills he took that we couldn’t crush, the ones that we could we tried this method with great success. As mentioned earlier, Beau was extremely food motivated and since we never fed him lower quality brands and initially didn’t feed him wet food until after his P.U. Surgery, he became the perfect candidate for hiding medication in wet food. While not every single feeding was successful, we were often able to salvage the feeding by adding sprinkles of crushed treats on top or adding a bit of water to the mix.

If you are planning on using the crushed pill method, I strongly advise that you ask your vet what happens if your cat refuses to take one dosage. As a crushed pill results in you being unable to salvage the medication, there is a chance that you will either need to purchase another dosage. Alternatively, you can choose to simply hide the solid medication in your cat’s food, though this doesn’t typically work as most cats will eat around the actual pill. 

Method 3: The Pill Gun Method (The Controlled Approach)

A pill gun (also called a pill popper or pill pusher) is a small device that holds the pill and helps you place it safely at the back of your cat’s throat without using your fingers. It’s like a little syringe, but for pills.

This method actually works really well because it gives you control and keeps your fingers safe from those sharp little teeth. You load the pill into the device, gently open your cat’s mouth, and use the plunger to deposit the pill at the back of their throat where they’re more likely to swallow it.

How to do it:

1. Load the pill into the device
2. Gently but firmly hold your cat’s head still (from above works best)
3. Tilt their head back slightly
4. Open their mouth by gently applying pressure on the sides of their jaw (this will cause the cat to want to open their mouth)
5. Insert the device
6. Push the plunger to release the pill
7. Remove the device and let them swallow
8. Gently hold your cat’s mouth to keep them from spitting the food out and massage their tongue through the bottom of their mouth. 
9. Follow up with a small amount of water or wet food to help them swallow

Brands to try: The Reload Pill Gun is popular and affordable. Most vets can recommend one or even provide one.

I personally didn’t know that pill guns existed until today, as this was never a product that was suggested to me; however, that isn’t to say I haven’t used this method before. 

This is actually the method I have used the most frequently and truthfully the only method I use anymore since I’ve gotten so good at it. Though, instead of using a pill gun, I gently toss the pill onto the back of my cat’s tongue and massage their tongue until they swallow. 

At this point, I’ve done this method on 8 cats and all of them have successfully swallowed all of their pills. While it does take some practice to get used to it, I’m hoping to grab a pill shooter the next time to see if it makes the process even easier! (Let me know if you try one and what your experience was like!)

Method 4: The Pill Crusher and Water Method (For Tablets Only)

If your vet says the pill can be crushed, you can crush it into powder and mix it with a small amount of water or liquid to create a paste or liquid medication.

This works especially well for cats who refuse solid pills but might accept a liquid. You can use a syringe (without the needle) to gently squirt this mixture into the side of their mouth.

It tastes terrible. Like, really terrible. Your cat will know something’s up. But sometimes it’s the only option that works.

You may question how this is any different than mixing the pill into wet food and that’s quite simple. Since you will need to use a syringe for this method, the process will be a lot more controlled. Your cat will be unable to avoid receiving their medication and you will be in control of how much liquid is used in the process. (ie. you will be able to gauge how thick you should make the paste based on your cat’s preferences.)

Method 5: Ask Your Vet About Compounding (The Game Changer for Picky Cats)

Here’s something a lot of cat owners don’t know about: compounding pharmacies. These are pharmacies that can take your cat’s medication and reformulate it into something more palatable. Like a flavored liquid, a smaller pill, or even a treat.

Seriously. Your cat’s antibiotic can become a chicken-flavored liquid. Their pain medication can become a tiny tablet. This is a real option, and it’s often worth the extra cost.

Why this matters: If your cat absolutely refuses pills, this might be the solution that actually works. Your vet can write a prescription for compounding, and you can find a compounding pharmacy in your area (or online).

Cost: It’s usually more expensive than regular pills, but if it means actually getting your cat their medication instead of spending three hours trying to force a pill down their throat, it might be worth it. Though you wouldn’t use this method for one-off medications, it can be a life-saver for lifelong medications you have to give your cat.

Method 6: Transdermal Medication (The Patch Option)

Some medications come in transdermal form, which means they’re absorbed through the skin. You apply a small patch or rub a gel onto your cat’s ear, and the medication is absorbed over time.

This is amazing if your medication is available in this form because there’s no pill to fight about. Your cat just goes about their day, and the medication does its thing.

The limitation: Not all medications are available in transdermal form, so this won’t work for every situation. But if your vet says it’s an option, it’s absolutely worth considering.

Method 7: The Professional Approach (For Impossible Cats)

And then there are the cats. You know the ones. The cats who have somehow developed an immunity to every trick. The cats who can detect a hidden pill from across the room. The cats who make you question your entire relationship.

For these cats, sometimes you need to accept that you might need professional help. This could mean:

Taking your cat to the vet for administration: Some vets will give your cat their medication during an office visit. Yes, you have to pay for it. Yes, it might be inconvenient. But sometimes it’s the only way to ensure your cat actually gets their medication.

Asking your vet about injectable alternatives: Some medications come in injectable form. Your vet can give your cat an injection that lasts for weeks or months, eliminating the need for daily pills.

Considering sedation for difficult cases: In rare cases where a cat is extremely stressed or aggressive about medication, your vet might recommend a mild sedative to make the process easier on everyone.

Understanding Your Cat’s Stress (Because It Matters)

Here’s something important that a lot of people don’t talk about: your cat is stressed during this whole process. And your stress makes it worse.

Cats pick up on our anxiety. If you’re nervous and frustrated about giving them a pill, they’re going to be nervous and defensive. They can feel it.

Before you even attempt to give your cat medication, take a breath. Seriously. Center yourself. Your cat needs you to be calm.

I suggest breathing through your nose during the process as this significantly reduces the chances of you making audible sounds of stress and discomfort. Essentially, you don’t want to grunt or sigh as these are clear signs that you are stressed.

Also, try to make the experience as quick and low-stress as possible. The longer you’re chasing your cat around the house, the more traumatic it becomes. If you can do it in under a minute, that’s ideal.

And here’s something else: after you give your cat their pill, give them some positive attention. A treat (a real one, not a pill pocket), some gentle petting, or playtime. You want them to know that even though that was unpleasant, you’re still their person and good things happen after medication time.

Depending on the cat, making sure you stroke or pet them during the process can help a lot. If you are unable to do this and have a significant other or another family member present, assign them with this task. 

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake 1: Forcing the pill down too hard. This can cause your cat to choke or aspirate the pill into their lungs instead of their stomach. Be firm but gentle.

Mistake 2: Not following up with water or food. After you give your cat a pill, they need something to help them swallow it properly. A small amount of wet food or water helps.

Mistake 3: Trying the same method every time. If something isn’t working, switch it up. Your cat has figured out your trick. They’re smarter than you think.

Mistake 4: Waiting until your cat is already sick to practice. If you can, practice these techniques with treats before your cat actually needs medication. That way, they’re not associating the process with feeling bad.

Mistake 5: Giving up too easily. I know it’s frustrating. I know your cat is being difficult. But they need this medication. You’ve got this.

When to Talk to Your Vet

If you’re really struggling, don’t suffer in silence. Talk to your vet. They’ve heard every pill-giving horror story imaginable, and they have solutions.

Tell them:

• What methods you’ve tried
• How your cat is responding
• How stressed you and your cat are getting
• Any concerns about whether your cat is actually swallowing the pill

Your vet might suggest alternatives you haven’t considered. They might have samples of different pill pockets or pill guns to try. They might recommend compounding or a different medication form entirely.

Remember, your vet wants your cat to get their medication just as much as you do. They’re on your team.

The Bottom Line

Giving your cat a pill is never going to be fun. But it doesn’t have to be a nightmare either. Start with the easiest methods. If those don’t work, move on to the others. And if nothing works, explore alternatives like compounding or injectable medications.

Your cat needs you to be their advocate. Sometimes that means doing things they don’t like, but doing them with care and patience and love.

You’re not a bad person for giving your cat medication. You’re a good person who loves their cat enough to do the hard thing.

And that matters.